It\u2019s an often-repeated phrase, \u201cflamencos don\u2019t eat\u201d, probably originating in the old custom of flamenco artists hanging out in taverns waiting to be hired, living on tapas and drinks. But food is the focus of many flamenco happenings, whether among family, or at large venues such as great historic festivals like the Potaje Gitano de Utrera (where bean stew is served at intermission), the Gazpacho de Mor\u00f3n (gazpacho for everyone) and the old Caracol\u00e1 Lebrijana (with plenty of snails, \u201ccaracoles\u201d).<\/p>\n
I\u2019ve always thought the best job anyone could possibly have would be that of gourmet restaurant critic. So, 18 years ago when I started writing about flamenco, it was a compromise I was happy to make; if I can\u2019t write about foodie issues, then flamenco will do.<\/p>\n
So, when the powers that be at Expo Flamenco said I was free to write about cultural topics other than flamenco\u2026including food…I jumped at the chance to discuss my second greatest passion: gastronomy. And the fact is, there are many traditional preparations associated with flamenco.<\/p>\n
For example, the omnipresent \u201cberza\u201d (BARE-the), often served at flamenco gatherings, and which is based on white beans, chick-peas, chorizo, black sausage, salt fat back and \u201ctagarninas\u201d, a kind of thistle, calories galore to carry you through fiestas on cold winter nights. One memorable berza I had was in the patio of an old communal dwelling of the unforgettable brother and sister flamenco artists, Antonia and Agust\u00edn on the Calle Nueva in Jerez.<\/p>\n
Then there\u2019s ajo campero (AH-ho cam-PE-ro), a triumph of poverty\u2019s resourcefulness. It\u2019s little more than stale bread whisked energetically with water, olive-oil, garlic, red and green peppers, tomatoes, chorizo, eggs and almost anything else you might have on hand, and which magically turns into delicious.<\/p>\n
I remember a Christmas-eve fiesta in Utrera where Bernarda de Utrera showed up. A live turkey ran loose frightening the children, but found its karma when it was summarily sacrificed out back, then cleaned and boiled whole in what was actually a metal bath-tub over a campfire, with an entire bush of rosemary, branches and all, right into the tub with a fistful of salt. After hours of singing, large communal bowls were passed around containing the boiled meat and loaves of old bread that had been unceremoniously thrown into the tub to soak up the rich broth, all eagerly consumed with our hands \u2013 what a feast at 5 a.m.!<\/p>\n
In Lebrija, at the house of blacksmith Daniel Salguero, great-grandson of the legendary sole\u00e1 singer Juaniqu\u00ed, I was offered tocino (toe-SEE-no), solid uncooked salt fat back thinly sliced and eaten on bread as if it were the finest cured ham. Generally speaking, pig fat went a long way to providing cheap calories in the post-war period when food was scarce.<\/p>\n
In the coastal area of M\u00e1laga province, the traditional moraga de sardinas, fresh-caught sardines grilled over hot coals, is popular for feeding a crowd, and one of the greatest food experiences there is. The venerable pe\u00f1a flamenca Juan Breva each year organizes a moraga on June 8, the day the famed singer Juan Breva died in 1918.<\/p>\n
Caf\u00e9 de olla (ca-FAY-day-OH-ya). The self-descriptive name, \u2018coffee from the pot\u2019, says it all: boiling water in a cooking pot, with ground coffee and sugar stirred in and allowed to steep like tea\u2026similar to Turkish coffee, and typical at flamenco gatherings as a waker-upper.<\/p>\n
At fairs in Andaluc\u00eda, most of which take place during the warm spring to autumn, the most popular beverage is rebujito (ray-boo-HE-toe). It\u2019s just equal parts dry sherry and 7-up mixed in a large pitcher with lots of ice\u2026perfect for keeping hydrated and maintaining the proper buzz.<\/p>\n
And speaking of sherry, it\u2019s a whole culture and way of life in Jerez; the English word \u201csherry\u201d is the bastardization of \u201cXeres\u201d, which is how Jerez was written centuries ago. Although most non-Spaniards think sherry is a sweet wine consumed by little old ladies, it\u2019s actually a large family of wines, ranging from bone-dry to aromatic to sweet. A world of flavor to be discovered, and which we\u2019ll talk about another time.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
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I\u2019ve always thought the best job anyone could possibly have would be that of gourmet restaurant critic.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":11153,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6601","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-estela-flamenca"],"yoast_head":"\n