{"id":14804,"date":"2019-08-19T14:52:10","date_gmt":"2019-08-19T12:52:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/?p=14804"},"modified":"2019-08-19T14:55:06","modified_gmt":"2019-08-19T12:55:06","slug":"memories-of-casa-pepe-moron-de-la-frontera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/en\/estela-flamenca\/memories-of-casa-pepe-moron-de-la-frontera\/","title":{"rendered":"Memories of Casa Pepe, Mor\u00f3n de la Frontera"},"content":{"rendered":"

(Dedicated to my young friends from Mor\u00f3n who never knew those times of Ca\u2019 Pepe).<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Casa Pepe<\/strong>, a simple working-man\u2019s bar that languished for decades in one corner of the plaza San Miguel in Mor\u00f3n de la Frontera, a small rural backwater with no train service.\u00a0 The town where the legendary Silverio Franconetti<\/strong> spent his youth nearly two centuries ago, soaking up the \u201cflamenco\u201d of those early years at the blacksmith shops. It\u2019s what the historians tell us.<\/p>\n

Pepe\u2019s bar, opened in 1956, was the typical humble place you could have seen in any small town of the era deep in the Andalusian interior, oblivious to the beach tourism that was rapidly making Spain \u201cdifferent\u201d, as the famous slogan went. The floor was littered with napkins and olive pits, alongside one window men played dominoes, a barely enclosed urinal decorated one corner and simple tapas were served in addition to cheap wine and beer, as well as other drinks for those who could afford them.<\/p>\n

Hard-scrabble times that lasted long after Spain\u2019s Civil War, with a lingering aftermath in the form of poverty. Always the crushing poverty. Tap-water only on alternating days, bean stews daily.\u00a0 Pepe put the first TV most people in town had ever seen, which did a lot to enhance business. People living in that stark but dignified scarcity were warm and friendly, philosophical, optimistic, always ready for a laugh or a bit of buler\u00edas knocked out on the old wooden bar, and always a surreal sense of humor that comes to the surface so easily in this part of the world.<\/p>\n

There was no ice in the drinks at Casa Pepe, and no Diet Coke, but Pepe\u2019s wife made the best spinach with chick-peas I ever had, a traditional Andalusian dish especially popular in the province of Seville, and which was a welcome change from plain boiled legumes during those lean years.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n\n
ESPINACAS CON GARBANZOS (Spinach with chick-peas, Casa Pepe style):<\/em><\/p>\n

In a large frying pan saut\u00e9 onion and garlic in abundant olive oil.\u00a0Add chopped spinach and a handful of cooked chick-peas, salt and paprika to taste, a short splash of vinegar and a bit of tomato sauce.\u00a0 Simmer for about fifteen minutes until you have a thick but soupy mixture, mostly spinach with a scattering of chick-peas.\u00a0 Some crusty bread and you\u2019re good to go.<\/em><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

Where was I?\u00a0 Oh yes\u2026 In the late sixties and early seventies a steady trickle of foreigners would stumble out of the rickety bus from Seville that stopped down the hill by the Sindicatos, check in at the Fonda Pascual and head directly uphill for Casa Pepe. There was this one guy nearly always at the bar who would approach new arrivals:<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

– Hello\u2026you like learn the flamenco?\u00a0 I teach the flamenco. You like?<\/em><\/p>\n

– No, gracias.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

The following day at the central market, those same new arrivals would discover the man sold tomatoes and cactus pears at a stand near the entrance, and in fact, knew nothing about flamenco.<\/p>\n

People returning from fiestas in the wee hours would often end up at Casa Pepe for breakfast, and there would occasionally be singing, or even Anzonini del Puerto<\/strong> doing his moves. Those were the days when flamencos enjoyed singing and dancing for one another, and neighbors didn\u2019t complain to the authorities. Pepe had a kind of attic upstairs where an informal fiesta would sometimes take place. I remember Fernanda<\/strong> singing there\u2026 and Miguel Funi, Joselero<\/strong>, Anzonini and many others. Diego del Gastor practically lived there, and the few tapas he consumed daily at Casa Pepe represented his food intake.<\/p>\n

The last time I was in Mor\u00f3n, there was an appliance store where Casa Pepe used to be. I opened my eyes and ears as much as I could, but there was no trace of comp\u00e1s\u00a0<\/em>or ange<\/em>, no laughter, no clacking sound of domino pieces slapping onto marble tables. A window had been cemented over and a small commemorative plaque placed years earlier to recall this landmark hung askew, aptly symbolic of the march of progress engulfing a way of life which now only lingers in the memory of a few of us seniors.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Diego

Diego del Gastor en Casa Pepe. Foto: Steve Kahn.<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Pepe,

Pepe, en la puerta de su establecimiento. Foto: archivo particular de Estela Zatania<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Anuncio

Anuncio de Casa Pepe en 1956. Recorte de Jacobo Vega.<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Those were the days when flamencos enjoyed singing and dancing for one another, and neighbors didn\u2019t complain to the authorities. Pepe had a kind of attic upstairs where an informal fiesta would sometimes take place. I remember Fernanda singing there\u2026 and Miguel Funi, Joselero, Anzonini and many others. Diego del Gastor practically lived there.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":14795,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14804","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-estela-flamenca"],"yoast_head":"\nMemories of Casa Pepe, Mor\u00f3n de la Frontera - Archivo Expoflamenco<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/en\/estela-flamenca\/memories-of-casa-pepe-moron-de-la-frontera\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Memories of Casa Pepe, Mor\u00f3n de la Frontera - Archivo Expoflamenco\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Those were the days when flamencos enjoyed singing and dancing for one another, and neighbors didn\u2019t complain to the authorities. 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Cantaora, guitarrista, bailaora y escritora. Flamenca por los cuatro costados. 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Pepe had a kind of attic upstairs where an informal fiesta would sometimes take place. I remember Fernanda singing there\u2026 and Miguel Funi, Joselero, Anzonini and many others. 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