{"id":13360,"date":"2019-06-20T20:09:55","date_gmt":"2019-06-20T18:09:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/?p=13360"},"modified":"2019-06-21T18:04:36","modified_gmt":"2019-06-21T16:04:36","slug":"a-special-day-in-utrera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/en\/bordonazo-new\/a-special-day-in-utrera\/","title":{"rendered":"A special day in Utrera"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I spent last Saturday in Utrera, that town in the province of Seville with so much flamenco history. I arrived early and went for a long walk on its streets, making sure to pass by Nueva Street and the house of <strong>Fernanda<\/strong> and <strong>Bernarda<\/strong>, the one who used to make a big fuss whenever <strong>Pop\u00e1 Pinini<\/strong> got drunk. It\u2019s a very a narrow street, and its whitewashed fa\u00e7ades still smell of the <em>canti\u00f1as de Pinini<\/em>, created by that unique and pure Gypsy man. Strolling in Utrera, I couldn\u2019t help remembering some good times with <strong>Gaspar<\/strong>, that genius of cante, who whenever he saw me in town, would ask me what on earth I was doing there, but he would say it with art, with no mocking intent. I also remembered Jos\u00e9 Fern\u00e1ndez Granados, <strong><em>Perrate<\/em><\/strong>, another genius of cante, a humble Gypsy chair-maker like his father, until one day he got the crazy idea of becoming a <em>cantaor<\/em>.\u00a0 For a moment I though I had seen Curro el Toleano, <strong>Curro de Utrera<\/strong>, reading the newspaper outside a bar, with his white head, from where honey candy fandangos would come out, and I thought of that <em>sailboat which always won because he skippered it<\/em>. I remembered one or other drunken evening with <strong>Diego el Cabrillero<\/strong>, a nephew of El Chocolate, who still sings like a god and possesses his uncle\u2019s Gypsy voice, although seasoned with the spice of Utrera. I thought I saw <strong>Pepa la Feonga<\/strong>, the best <em>festera<\/em> in Spain, who is no longer with us, although I\u2019d clearly imagined her walking down the street with that unique grace and <em>comp\u00e1s<\/em> of hers.<\/p>\n<p>Later I went for lunch at <strong>La Abuela Mar\u00eda<\/strong> restaurant on Juan de Anaya Street, owned by <strong>Catalina<\/strong> (known as \u201cCati\u201d to her friends), the daughter of the great Enrique Montoya, without a doubt one of the best artists of this land. In this beautiful restaurant, you can eat a stew or a tomato soup which will make you want to live there forever. My hosts were Cati\u2019s husband, <strong>Luis de la Ramona<\/strong>, and <strong>Manolito Pelusa<\/strong> (<em>bailaor<\/em> from Nimes who settled in Utrera) and we had an interesting conversation about the <em>cante<\/em> of this land, about its Gypsy families and about the importance of Utrera not getting stuck in the past, living off its glorious memories: the <em>soleares<\/em> of <strong>La Sarneta<\/strong> and the <em>martinetes<\/em> of Perico Mariano <em><strong>El Pelao<\/strong>, <\/em>the incomparable echo of <strong>Manuel de Angustias<\/strong>, or the unique sound of <strong>Bambino<\/strong>. The day ended in the sunny terrace of a bar owned by the daughters of <strong>Diego Chamona<\/strong>, nieces of Bambino, where we could enjoy an improvised <em>fiesta<\/em>, short but lovely, with that wonderful taste of Utrera.<\/p>\n<p>Back home, with the sun already fast asleep, I thought about how lucky we are, those of us who live in this land where the clock is just an ornament, because time stops and we can have a good time at any time, and in Utrera there is always a good time, it\u2019s a town that, although it has grown, still retains its small-town character, even if it\u2019s just a half an hour drive from Seville, and a stone\u2019s throw from other flamenco cities such as C\u00e1diz, Jerez, Lebrija, Alcal\u00e1 de Guada\u00edra or Mor\u00f3n de la Frontera. Spending a day in Utrera is quite something, it\u2019s a luxury, but an affordable luxury.<\/p>\n<p>To be a flamenco aficionado is not just going to the theaters or buying albums. There is a way to feel flamenco, which is getting lost walking on the streets of these towns with so much history, stepping on the same cobblestones where those geniuses of old walked on so often, drinking wine in those taverns where they hung out <em>a comp\u00e1s<\/em>, and smell the same aromas they smelled. If you haven\u2019t visited Utrera yet, don\u2019t delay. Pick any Saturday and walk by the old town, have lunch at La Abuela Mar\u00eda and get yourself a good guide who\u2019ll tell you why is Utrera so <em>flamenca<\/em>, and why is that their flamencos would never want to live anywhere else.<\/p>\n<h6 style=\"text-align: right;\">* This article was originally published in ExpoFlamenco on March 14th, 2016<\/h6>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>To be a flamenco aficionado is not just going to the theatres or buying albums. There is a way to feel flamenco, which is getting lost walking on the streets of these towns with so much history.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":13358,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[256],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13360","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bordonazo-new"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A special day in Utrera - Archivo Expoflamenco<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/expoflamenco.com\/archivo\/en\/bordonazo-new\/a-special-day-in-utrera\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A special day in Utrera - Archivo Expoflamenco\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"To be a flamenco aficionado is not just going to the theatres or buying albums. 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